Fondouk Tazi (Talaa Kebira)

Fondouk Tazi is a shopping address on Rue Talaa Kebira, the long main thoroughfare of Fès el-Bali, the old medina of Fès in Morocco's Fès-Meknès region. A fondouk is a traditional merchants' inn with rooms around a courtyard, and this one is known for its pottery. It stocks traditional Fès blue pottery, modern tableware and striped collections. Fès blue, the cobalt glaze associated with the city's ceramic tradition, is the main attraction, and the tableware in contemporary shapes sets it apart from stalls that sell only souvenir plates. Talaa Kebira itself, the street on which the fondouk stands, is lined with carpet, babouche and jewelry shops, so a visit can be combined with browsing for other crafts. Quality at the fondouk is generally higher than at pavement stalls, with hand-painted pieces and regular glazing, although prices reflect this. Buyers can compare hand-painted work, which shows slight variation in the brushwork, with machine-printed ceramics that appear uniform. Bargaining is usual, though the range is narrower in shops with displayed tags, and discounts are more likely when buying several pieces. Payment is normally in Moroccan dirhams cash, with cards accepted by some shops, and tax refunds are not generally available. Ceramics are fragile, so many shops pack and ship purchases, and the cost should be agreed in advance. Talaa Kebira is busy and lively, with porters, donkeys and tour groups competing for space. Food options appear along the street, including cafés, juice stands and small restaurants. The must-visit corners are the courtyard displays of blue pottery, the tableware sections and the neighbouring carpet and jewelry shops on the street.