Chouara Tannery and Leather Shops

The Chouara Tannery is the best-known leather-working site in Fès el-Bali, the medina of Fès in Morocco's Fès-Meknès region, and is often described as dating to the 11th century. Located in the Hay Lablida Chouara quarter, it consists of rows of stone vats filled with dyes and lime where hides are soaked, dyed and dried by hand, viewed from the rooftop terraces of the surrounding leather shops. Visitors reach those terraces through the shops, which sell leather goods made from camel, cow, goat and sheep hide: babouches (slippers), poufs, belts, jackets, wallets, bags and cushion covers. This is different from generic shopping because the goods are produced in the district around the shops, and the sale is tied to the viewing experience. Quality varies widely. Premium pieces use thick, well-finished leather with even stitching, while cheaper items can be thin, strongly scented with dye or stitched unevenly. Because shop staff often escort visitors to a terrace and offer a sprig of mint to counter the smell of the vats, a sales pitch usually follows, and prices quoted are often several times the final price. Bargaining is essential, and a calm approach after checking several shops usually brings the price down by a large margin. Payment is accepted in Moroccan dirhams cash, and many of the larger leather shops also take cards, sometimes with a surcharge; tax refunds generally do not apply at these shops. The area is crowded with tour groups in the morning, and the tannery works best in daylight when the vats are active. There are cafés and small restaurants in the lanes leading to the quarter, though the shops themselves do not serve meals. Must-visit corners include the rooftop terraces overlooking the vats, the babouche counters and the jacket displays on upper floors.