Bou Inania Madrasa

Bou Inania Madrasa stands on Talaa Kebira in Fes el-Bali, in Morocco's Fès-Meknès region, about three minutes on foot from Bab Bou Jeloud. It was built between 1351 and 1356 under the Marinid sultan Abu Inan Faris and is one of the few religious buildings in Fes open to non-Muslims. Visitors enter through a heavy carved door and reach a central courtyard paved with marble and surrounded by walls of zellige tilework, carved stucco and intricately worked cedar. A fountain stands in the middle of the courtyard, and the prayer hall can be seen from the threshold, though entry to it is restricted. Upper floors held student cells in the days when the building served as a college, and the cedar screens and carved lintels reward close attention. Across Talaa Kebira, the Dar al-Magana building with its row of cedar brackets once held a water clock, and the two are easily combined. The ticket office is at the entrance, admission is MAD 20, and payment is cash only. Opening hours are roughly 9am to 5pm, with closures at prayer times and a longer closure around Friday midday. A visit lasts about 45 minutes. The courtyard is at its best when the doors open at 9am, giving an empty space for photographs before tour groups arrive and the light lifts the colours of the tile. Late morning brings guided groups and crowding in the small courtyard. The madrasa remains a mosque in use, so visitors should dress modestly, keep voices low and respect prayer times. Photography in the courtyard is generally allowed, but visitors should avoid photographing worshippers and should follow any signs near the prayer hall.