Pez Gordo

Pez Gordo is a seafood kitchen on Calle Allende in the Centro district of La Paz, Baja California Sur, working the tostada-and-cocktail end of the mariscos tradition that the Sea of Cortez supports better than almost anywhere in Mexico. The format is the standard one for the coast: raw and lightly cured seafood assembled to order, sold at prices that reflect the local market rather than tourism, in a room that puts no effort into decoration. The ceviche tostada at roughly $7 is the emblematic order, a crisp fried tortilla piled with fish or shrimp cured in lime, avocado, cucumber, onion and a choice of salsas, built high enough that two make a meal. The campechana at about $12 is the mixed cocktail, layering shrimp, octopus and oyster with tomato, lime and coriander in a tall glass, and the aguachile negro near $14 is the darker, chile-forward cure made with dried chile and soy-like reductions, hotter and more intense than the green version. Oysters, fish tacos and whole preparations round out a short board. Portions are large and the turnover is fast, which keeps everything fresh. The dining room is plain and bright: laminated tables, plastic chairs, ceiling fans, hand-painted signage and a constant murmur of local conversation, filling at lunch with La Paz workers and families. There is no dress code, no reservation system and no wine list; drinks are beer, micheladas, aguas frescas and soft drinks. Hours run 9AM to 6PM daily, so this is a breakfast and lunch operation with no dinner service, and the kitchen works through the day's purchase rather than to a fixed closing. Cash in pesos is the practical payment. The Centro location on Calle Allende is a short walk from the Malecon, which makes it easy to combine with a morning on the water.