Angus Prime Steak & Lobster

Angus Prime Steak & Lobster occupies a room on the Cabo San Lucas marina in Baja California Sur and works the surf-and-turf brief that the town's sportfishing economy has always supported. The kitchen is a conventional steakhouse in its structure, dry-ageing prime beef and cooking it over high heat, but the local variable is spiny lobster from the Baja coast, which appears alongside the beef rather than as an afterthought. The surf and turf at roughly $85 pairs a filet with a lobster tail and is the plate that defines the restaurant; the 28-day aged ribeye at about $65 is the pure steakhouse order; and the lobster bisque near $22 is the standard opening. Sides follow the American steakhouse convention of creamed spinach, potato preparations and grilled vegetables served separately, and a short section of Baja seafood covers diners who do not want beef. Portions are large and the cooking is precise rather than inventive, which is what the format asks for. The dining room is dark and formal by Cabo standards: low lighting, banquettes and leather chairs, white linen, a visible wine display and a noise level that stays conversational. It reads as a business-dinner and celebration room rather than a beach one, and the crowd is heavily weighted toward adults. Dress is smart-casual, with long trousers usual in the evening and no jacket required. The wine list is the deepest part of the operation, with a substantial cellar covering Napa and South American reds alongside Valle de Guadalupe producers from Baja California to the north, and staff able to pair with the ageing programme. Service runs 5PM to 11PM daily, dinner only, so there is no cheaper lunch option. Reservations are advisable two to three days ahead in the December to April high season and around the October sportfishing tournaments, when the marina fills.