Abandoned 19th-century silver mining town in the mountains between La Paz and Cabo, with remarkable chimneys and a charming restaurant
El Triunfo stands in the Sierra de la Victoria, on Highway 1 roughly halfway between La Paz and Los Cabos in Baja California Sur, at an altitude high enough that the air is noticeably cooler than the coast. In the second half of the nineteenth century it was the largest settlement on the peninsula: silver and gold were worked here from the 1750s and industrially from the 1860s by the English-backed El Progreso mining company, and the town's population is said to have exceeded 10,000 before the ore ran thin and a 1918 hurricane finished the operation.
What remains is a partly abandoned mining town of stone and brick shells, rusting machinery and, above everything, two brick smelting chimneys. The taller, known locally as La Ramona and attributed by persistent local tradition to Gustave Eiffel's workshop, rises about 35m from the hillside above the town and is visible from the highway. Visitors can walk up to its base on a short rough path. The Museo Ruta de Plata, opened in 2018, is the town's other substantial draw: a well-designed modern museum covering the mining history, geology and social life of the period, with a separate music room holding a collection of pianos brought to the town by European mining families during its boom.
El Triunfo today has a few hundred residents and a small cluster of businesses along the main street: a bakery, a couple of craft workshops, and the Caffé El Triunfo, a long-running restaurant and bakery with a shaded courtyard that has made the town a standard lunch stop for travellers driving between the coasts.
Two to three hours covers the museum, the chimney walk and lunch. Mornings are cooler for the climb, and the low sun of late afternoon lights the chimney and the mine ruins best for photography. The site is largely unfenced and includes open shafts and unstable masonry, so straying from the paths is unwise. Crowds are minimal in any season.
Highlights
- Walk up to La Ramona, the 35m brick smelting chimney standing above the abandoned mine workings
- Tour the Museo Ruta de Plata for the peninsula's silver mining history, geology and social record
- See the collection of pianos brought to the sierra by European mining families during the boom
- Explore stone and brick shells of what was once the largest settlement in Baja California Sur
- Stop for lunch at Caffé El Triunfo, a bakery and restaurant with a shaded courtyard on the main street
Tips for visiting
- Break the La Paz to Los Cabos drive here; the town sits roughly halfway on Highway 1
- Check museum opening days before arriving, as hours in a town of a few hundred residents are limited
- Wear closed shoes for the chimney path, which crosses loose rock and mine tailings
- Keep to marked paths, as the ruins include open shafts and unstable masonry and are largely unfenced
- Carry pesos in cash; card acceptance in the town is unreliable
When to visit
November through April brings cool, dry conditions ideal for walking the ruins; the sierra is more temperate than the coast but summer midday heat is still strong. Late afternoon light picks out the brick chimney and mine workings best for photography, and the town is quiet in any season.
Accessibility
The Museo Ruta de Plata is a modern building with level access and adapted facilities, making it the most accessible part of the visit. The main street is paved but uneven with high kerbs, and the path to the La Ramona chimney crosses loose rock and mine tailings on a gradient, which is not passable by wheelchair. The wider ruins sit on rough unpaved ground.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a visit take?
Two to three hours covers the Museo Ruta de Plata, the walk to the chimney and lunch in town. Travellers on a tight schedule can see the chimney and museum in about ninety minutes.
Is it worth it for kids?
The ruins, machinery and chimney appeal to children, and the museum is well presented rather than text-heavy. Close supervision is needed because open shafts and crumbling walls are not systematically fenced.
Is photography allowed?
Photography is unrestricted outdoors throughout the town and ruins. The museum sets its own policy and may limit photography in certain rooms.
Is there an admission charge?
The town, ruins and chimney are free to visit. The Museo Ruta de Plata charges a modest entry fee, with reduced rates for children and students.