Baghdad is the capital of Iraq, a Tigris River city of about 8 million founded in 762 CE as the Abbasid Round City. This guide covers its museums, book street, shrines, riverside food and the advisory context every visitor must weigh first.
Baghdadi food centres on masgouf (carp split and grilled upright beside a wood fire), kubba, dolma, tashreeb, quzi (rice with lamb), pacha (sheep's head and trotters), and flat samoon bread. Breakfast is kahi (flaky pastry) with geymar (buffalo cream) and date syrup; tea is served strong and sweet in small glasses.
Must-try dishes
Iconic dishes that define Baghdad.
Masgouf
Tigris carp grilled beside a wood fire with tomato and onion.
Where to try: Al-Baghdadi Restaurant, Abu Nawas Street
Price: 20,000-35,000 IQD ($15-27) for two
Kubba
Rice or burghul dumplings stuffed with spiced meat.
Where to try: Zahrat Al Khaimah, Karrada Street
Price: 3,000-6,000 IQD ($2.30-4.60)
Kahi with geymar
Pastry with buffalo cream and syrup, the classic breakfast.
Where to try: Rusafa and Adhamiya breakfast shops
Price: 4,000-6,000 IQD ($3-4.60)
Tashreeb
Bread soaked in lamb stew.
Where to try: Darbunah, Karrada
Price: 6,000-10,000 IQD ($4.60-7.60)
Quzi
Rice and lamb with nuts and raisins.
Where to try: Beeston Samad, Mansour
Price: 8,000-14,000 IQD ($6-11)
Top restaurants
Handpicked picks for the best dining experiences.
Restaurants by cuisine
Browse picks grouped by cuisine type.
Iraqi
Fusion
Italian
Mediterranean
Tea House
Street food
Local flavours at affordable prices.
Samoon with kebab
Diamond-shaped bread stuffed with grilled meat and onion.
Find it at: Karrada Street and Al-Rashid Street stalls
Haji Zbala raisin juice
Cold sweet raisin and lemon drink.
Find it at: Haji Zbala stalls, central Baghdad
Food markets
Where locals shop and graze.
Shorja Market
Dense spice, grain and household goods market in old Rusafa.
Hours: About 8:00 AM-6:00 PM, closed Friday morning
Karrada Street date and sweet shops
Dates, nuts, sweets and Abu Afif pastries.
Hours: About 9:00 AM-11:00 PM
Dining etiquette & tips
Navigate the local food scene confidently.
Eat with the right hand or flatbread.
Lunch is 1:00-3:00 PM and dinner after 8:00 PM.
Masgouf is sold by weight; ask the price before ordering.
Tip 5-10% in restaurants if no service is added.
- Vegetarian
- Lentil soup, falafel, dolma without meat, hummus and fattoush; most dishes include meat.
- Vegan
- Possible with mezze and salads; ask for no butter or ghee.
- Halal
- All food is halal.
- Gluten free
- Rice dishes work; bread is wheat-based.
- Allergies
- Nuts are common in desserts; carry a translated allergy card.
Food budget guide
What to expect at different price points.
| Level | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | 8,000-15,000 IQD ($6-11) per meal | Samoon kebab, falafel and tea. |
| Mid-range | 20,000-40,000 IQD ($15-31) per meal | Masgouf or mixed grill at Abu Nawas. |
| Upscale | $40+/meal | Fine dining, international cuisine, and premium experiences. |