Metaxi Mas

Metaxi Mas in the inland village of Exo Gonia has earned a reputation as Santorini's most beloved local taverna by offering the opposite of everything the island's famous caldera-rim restaurant circuit represents: no views of the volcano, no Oia sunset atmosphere, no premium pricing, no reservations accepted. What it offers instead is some of the most honest and enjoyable Greek taverna cooking on the island—prepared from local Santorini ingredients at prices that Santorini's Greek residents can actually pay—in a mountain village setting of whitewashed walls, tables under a pergola, and a kitchen that produces without performance. Pork apaki—Santorini's distinctive version of cured and slow-cooked seasoned pork—is among the signature dishes; slow-cooked eggplant with feta is the best vegetarian option; and the simple salads made with Santorini's remarkably intense cherry tomatoes outperform most presentations at restaurants charging three times the price. The no-reservation policy is absolute and creates a queuing culture: visitors and locals show up, add their name to a handwritten list, and wait at the bar with a carafe of Santorini wine. The wait can be an hour on a summer Friday evening. The atmosphere during and after the wait is entirely convivial. Metaxi Mas is accessible by taxi from Fira, approximately fifteen minutes.