To Steki tis Agoras

To Steki tis Agoras is a Thessaloniki grill institution near the Modiano Market — one of the most celebrated traditional destinations in Central Macedonia for those who understand the city's relationship with the spit and the charcoal grill. The venue has operated for decades on a philosophy of radical simplicity: exceptional cuts, an open fire, and the kind of service that values the regulars who have been coming since the 1980s above any other consideration. Paidakia — milk-fed lamb chops grilled over charcoal to the point where the fat renders and caramelises at the edges — are the dish that defines the kitchen, and they are as good here as anywhere in northern Greece. Kokoretsi, the spiced offal wrapped around a spit that has been a feature of Greek Easter celebrations for centuries, is available year-round at Steki tis Agoras in a form that rewards the adventurous eater. Spleen souvlaki on a skewer, a working-class Thessaloniki classic rarely found in tourist-facing venues, appears on the menu without apology. The dining room and the kitchen are equally unpretentious — bare tables, paper napkins, the smell of charcoal and rendered fat drifting through the room. The venue closes in the early afternoon, following the rhythm of the market district it serves. This is a lunch and early afternoon destination only.