O Platanos, Edessa

O Platanos — named for the great plane tree (platanos in Greek) that shades it — sits in the waterfalls area of Edessa, the most distinctive natural attraction in the Pella regional unit of Central Macedonia. The town of Edessa is built atop a limestone escarpment through which the Edessaios River falls in a series of dramatic cascades, the largest of which drops 70 metres into a gorge below, making it the most spectacular waterfall system in the southern Balkans. The taverna has positioned itself perfectly beside this attraction, offering traditional Macedonian country cooking in a setting where the sound of falling water accompanies the meal. The menu centres on two ingredients that reflect the geography of the surrounding Pella plain: fresh trout from the cold mountain rivers feeding the Edessa system, baked with herbs and olive oil to allow the quality of the fish to speak; and slow-roasted lamb shank braised until the collagen melts and the meat releases from the bone, served with roasted vegetables and a wedge of lemon. Feta wrapped in phyllo with local honey is a reliable and characterful dessert starter. The seasonal fruit and vegetable produce of the Pella plain — strawberries in spring, peaches in summer, quince in autumn — informs the kitchen's accompaniments throughout the year. The restaurant is popular with both Edessa residents and the steady stream of visitors who come to see the waterfalls.