Mainz

Mainz, the capital of Rhineland-Palatinate, lies about 40 km west of Frankfurt on the left bank of the Rhine opposite the mouth of the Main. The regional train (RE) from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof reaches Mainz Hbf in about 30 to 35 minutes, while the S-Bahn S8 via the airport takes 40 to 45 minutes and runs every 15 to 30 minutes. Both are covered by the Deutschlandticket. Driving takes about 35 minutes via the A66 and A671, with garages near the Rheinufer.

Mainz is best known as the home of Johannes Gutenberg, and the Gutenberg Museum near the cathedral displays printing presses and Gutenberg Bibles. The Romanesque St. Martin's Cathedral, with a thousand years of history, stands in the Altstadt beside the Markt at Markt 10, where the Renaissance Marktbrunnen fountain and the half-timbered houses create a lively setting. On the Stephansberg, the Church of St. Stephan holds a set of blue stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall, a major draw for visitors. The Rhine promenade, the Roman Theatre remains and the narrow lanes of the Altstadt round out the visit.

A sensible one-day arc starts with arrival around 9:30 and a walk to the cathedral and the Markt, followed by the Gutenberg Museum. Lunch fits in one of the wine taverns, or Weinstuben, of the Altstadt, where Rheinhessen wines and local dishes such as Handkäse mit Musik are served. In the afternoon, the climb to St. Stephan for the Chagall windows is followed by a stroll along the Rhine before the evening train.

The best period is April to October, when the market square, terraces and riverbank are lively. On Saturday mornings the Markt hosts one of the larger regional farmers' markets, which adds atmosphere but also crowds. Many museums are closed on Mondays, so a Tuesday to Sunday visit is safer. In late summer the wine festivals along the Rhine add to the appeal.