Old Market (Sharm El Maya)

The Old Market in Sharm El Maya is the heart of the original town of Sharm El Sheikh in South Sinai, Egypt, long before the resort strip developed. Set around a mosque square, it is a compact grid of lanes with Egyptian cafes, juice bars, spice and perfume stalls, shisha lounges, clothing and souvenir shops, and local grocers and bakeries. The atmosphere is more local than in Naama Bay, with Egyptian families, workers and visitors mixing in the evening. Visitors can sample ful, taamiya, grilled kofta, fresh fruit juices and sweets such as basbousa, or sit with mint tea and watch the market life. Spice sellers offer hibiscus, cumin, dried lime and chili, and perfumers blend oils in small bottles, usually sold by weight or by the bottle with prices open to bargaining. Souvenir stalls sell papyrus, alabaster, camel leather, galabeyas and scarves. A visit takes one to two hours, longer with a meal. The best time is in the evening, from about 18:00, when shops are open and the lanes are lit and busiest. Shops usually open around 10:00 and close near 23:00. The Sharm El Maya waterfront and small fishing harbour are close by and worth a short walk for views of boats and the bay, and the marina area has additional restaurants. Photographers will find good subjects in spice displays, lantern-lit lanes and the minaret at dusk, though permission should be asked before photographing shopkeepers. The area is relaxed but busy at peak times, and sellers are persistent, so firm and friendly bargaining is expected. A taxi from Naama Bay costs about EGP 80-150. Entry is free, and modest dress is appreciated.