Basilica of the Holy Blood

The Basilica of the Holy Blood stands at Burg 13 in Brugge, Belgium, in the corner of the Burg beside the Stadhuis. It is two churches in one. The lower chapel, dedicated to Saint Basil, is a dark, plain Romanesque space from the early 12th century, with thick columns and a carved tympanum, and feels very different from the building above. A steep staircase leads to the upper chapel, which was rebuilt in the Gothic style and later redecorated in a rich neo-Gothic scheme with painted ceilings, gilded details and stained glass. The attraction is the relic of the Holy Blood, a cloth said to hold blood of Christ brought to Flanders in the 12th century by Count Thierry of Alsace after the Second Crusade. It is kept in a rock-crystal vial in an ornate silver tabernacle, and on most days a priest brings it out so visitors can queue to touch it briefly and pray. Each year on Ascension Day the relic is carried in the Heilig-Bloedprocessie, a procession with thousands of participants that is listed by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. The small museum next door, entered for about EUR 4, holds the silver reliquary made for the procession, gold and enamel work, and paintings and tapestries. The basilica is free to enter, though the lower chapel is dimly lit and the upper chapel can be closed for services, particularly at midday. The Romanesque lower chapel is best seen first, then the stairs lead up to the upper level. A visit usually lasts around 30 minutes. The late morning is the busiest time because tour groups arrive from the Markt, while the early opening slot and the afternoon session are calmer. Visitors are expected to dress modestly and keep quiet, as this is an active place of worship. The facade on the Burg, with its gilded statues, is a good photograph from the middle of the square.