Restaurant in Buenos Aires, Argentina
Empanadas Stands - San Telmo Market
Various empanada vendors at Sunday San Telmo market offering freshly baked empanadas in dozens of flavors. Perfect for market snacking.
The empanada stands clustered along Defensa Street and within the covered Mercado de San Telmo are among the most authentic street-food experiences available in Buenos Aires. San Telmo, the city's oldest neighborhood, hosts a celebrated Sunday open-air market that stretches along Defensa from Plaza Dorrego south through the surrounding blocks, drawing thousands of locals and visitors throughout the day. Within and around this market, a dozen or more empanada vendors set up stalls offering freshly baked and fried empanadas in a wide range of fillings.
The empanada is Argentina's most beloved portable food: a half-moon of dough sealed around a savory filling and either baked in a brick oven or fried in hot oil. At San Telmo's market stands, both methods are represented side by side. The fillings span traditional and creative: carne (seasoned ground beef with hard-boiled egg and olives, Argentina's classic), jamón y queso (ham and cheese), humita (sweetcorn), caprese (tomato and mozzarella), and regional varieties that change with the season and the vendor. Each empanada is individually priced at the equivalent of USD 1–3, and vendors typically offer mixed dozens at a small discount.
The atmosphere around the stalls is lively — vendors call out their fillings, families share portions on the steps of nearby buildings, and the smell of baking pastry mingles with street musicians and antique sellers. The market operates exclusively on Sundays from approximately 10 AM to 5 PM, meaning access is limited to one day per week. Arriving between 11 AM and 1 PM ensures the widest selection before the most popular fillings sell out. The covered Mercado de San Telmo on Defensa 961 also has permanent food stalls operating daily with empanada options available throughout the week for visitors who cannot visit on a Sunday.
Signature dishes
- Beef Empanada — $2
- Ham & Cheese Empanada — $2
- Dozen Mixed — $20
Hours: Sunday 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
Reservations: Walk-up
Location
Defensa Street, San Telmo, Buenos Aires
-34.6214, -58.3731 — View on map
Highlights
- Freshly baked and fried empanadas in a dozen or more fillings at Buenos Aires' beloved Sunday market
- Traditional carne filling with seasoned beef, hard-boiled egg, and olives — the quintessential Argentine empanada
- One of the city's most atmospheric street-food experiences in San Telmo, Buenos Aires' oldest neighborhood
- Both baked (al horno) and fried (fritas) empanada styles available side by side
- Sunday market along Defensa combines empanada vendors with musicians, antiques, and tango performers
Tips
- Arrive between 11 AM and 1 PM on Sundays for the widest filling selection before popular varieties sell out.
- Ask vendors which empanadas are baked versus fried — baked tend to be lighter, fried are crispier and richer.
- Mixed dozens are usually priced at a discount; a variety pack is the most cost-effective way to sample multiple fillings.
- The covered Mercado de San Telmo on Defensa 961 has permanent food stalls open daily for weekday visits.
- Bring small cash — most street vendors at the Sunday market do not accept card payments.
FAQ
When do the empanada stands at San Telmo operate?
The open-air street market along Defensa operates every Sunday from approximately 10 AM to 5 PM. The indoor Mercado de San Telmo has permanent food stalls open daily with empanadas available throughout the week.
What fillings are typically available?
Common fillings include carne (seasoned beef with egg and olives), jamón y queso (ham and cheese), humita (sweetcorn), caprese (tomato and mozzarella), and spinach with cheese. Vendors vary their selection from week to week.
How much do empanadas cost at the San Telmo market?
Individual empanadas typically cost the equivalent of USD 1–3 each depending on the filling and vendor. Mixed dozens are often available at a small discount over individual prices, making sharing between a group the best value.
Are the empanadas baked or fried?
Both styles are available. Baked empanadas (al horno) have a light, flaky crust; fried empanadas (fritas) are crispier with a richer taste. Vendors usually identify the style clearly at their stalls.
Accessibility
The Sunday market along Defensa Street is pedestrianized on market days, making wheelchair and stroller navigation possible, though the historic cobblestone surface is uneven and may pose challenges. The covered Mercado de San Telmo on Defensa 961 has wider aisles and a more level interior floor and is more easily navigable for visitors with mobility limitations.