Market in Shahr-e-Naw, Kabul, Afghanistan
Chicken Street (Kochi Murgh)
Kabul's most famous shopping street lined with antique dealers, carpet shops, lapis lazuli vendors, and craft boutiques. Long favored by expats, diplomats, and travelers seeking Afghan souvenirs.
Chicken Street, locally known as Kochi Murgh, is Kabul's most celebrated shopping destination, running through the heart of the Shahr-e-Naw district. For decades it has served as the premier address for antique dealers, carpet merchants, lapis lazuli vendors, and traditional craft boutiques, drawing expats, diplomats, journalists, and independent travelers in search of authentic Afghan souvenirs.
The street takes its unusual name from the livestock traders who once occupied the area. Today, the storefronts are densely packed with hundreds of shops offering an extraordinary range of goods. Antique dealers display pre-war Soviet-era medals, British-era coins, old Qurans, and tribal jewelry alongside pieces of uncertain provenance — buyers should examine items carefully and understand that export of items over 100 years old is prohibited under Afghan law without proper documentation.
Carpet shops are the undisputed anchors of Chicken Street, presenting everything from affordable kilim flatweaves to museum-quality Turkmen and Uzbek pile rugs. Shopkeepers typically invite visitors inside to view rolled inventories, pouring tea while pieces are unrolled for inspection. This hospitality is genuine but also part of the commercial ritual; visitors are under no obligation to buy.
Lapis lazuli is arguably Chicken Street's signature trade. Afghanistan holds some of the world's finest lapis deposits in Badakhshan Province, and the stones are fashioned into rings, pendants, bracelets, and loose cabochons of deep royal blue. Quality varies significantly — some shops sell dyed howlite as lapis, so buyers should look for pyrite flecks and ask for heat-test demonstrations from trusted dealers.
Embroidery, pakol hats, hand-painted miniatures, and hand-blown glass items fill the remaining stalls. A handful of shops also stock curated selections of Afghan literature, maps, and photography books in English. Food options in the immediate vicinity include small tea houses and bakeries along nearby side streets.
Bargaining is the norm on Chicken Street. Initial asking prices for carpets and antiques are typically set at two to three times the expected sale price, leaving room for negotiation. For lapis and gemstones, some dealers with fixed-price signage do maintain consistent prices. Cash in Afghan Afghani or US dollars is universally accepted; card payment is not available.
Security conditions in Kabul have fluctuated significantly since 2021 and visitors should consult current travel advisories before visiting. When the street is accessible, mornings on weekdays tend to be quieter than afternoons or weekends.
Highlights
- Browse antique dealers displaying pre-war coins, tribal jewelry, and Soviet-era artifacts on Kabul's most storied shopping street
- Shop for Afghan kilim rugs and Turkmen pile carpets in shops that have traded here for generations
- Find lapis lazuli in its finest forms — loose stones, set jewelry, and decorative objects — sourced from Afghanistan's Badakhshan Province
- Pick up hand-embroidered pieces, pakol hats, and hand-blown glass crafts unique to Afghan artisan traditions
- Experience the traditional tea-and-trade hospitality of Kabul's carpet merchants
Tips
- Arrive before noon on weekdays for the quietest atmosphere and most attentive service from dealers
- For lapis lazuli, ask dealers for a heat test or acetone check to distinguish real stone from dyed howlite substitutes
- Confirm that any antique item can be legally exported — items over 100 years old require a government export certificate
- Start carpet bargaining at 50% of the asking price and expect a final price around 60-70% of the original
- Bring cash in Afghan Afghani or US dollars — no shops on Chicken Street accept credit cards
- Accept tea when offered by shopkeepers — it is a social courtesy and creates no obligation to purchase
FAQ
Is Chicken Street safe to visit?
Security conditions in Kabul have changed significantly since 2021. Travelers should consult their government's current travel advisory before visiting. When open, the street has historically been a relatively organized commercial zone, but the broader situation in Afghanistan requires up-to-date guidance from official sources.
Can antiques purchased on Chicken Street be exported legally?
Afghan law prohibits the export of cultural artifacts and items over 100 years old without an official government export certificate. Visitors should request documentation from sellers and declare purchases to customs. Undeclared antiquities risk confiscation and legal penalties.
Are prices fixed or negotiable on Chicken Street?
Most prices are negotiable. Starting at 50-60% of the initial asking price is standard practice. Some dealers display fixed-price signs and may be less willing to bargain, particularly on smaller items like postcards or packaged nuts.
What is the best item to buy on Chicken Street for quality and value?
Lapis lazuli and hand-embroidered textiles represent some of the best value for quality on Chicken Street, provided buyers take time to examine pieces from multiple stalls. Afghan kilim rugs are also competitively priced relative to import costs in Western markets.