Chicken Street

Chicken Street is a short, narrow lane in the Shahr-e Naw district of central Kabul, Afghanistan, and has long been the city's best-known address for souvenir shopping. The shops that line it specialise in goods that differ sharply from ordinary city retail: hand-knotted wool and silk carpets, lapis lazuli from the Badakhshan mines sold as loose stones and jewellery, silver and semi-precious jewellery, embroidered textiles and coats, antique brass and copperware, old rifles and coins, and sheepskin and fur garments. Many of the stores are small, family-run and stacked floor to ceiling with stock, and several keep additional rugs in back rooms that are brought out on request.

Quality varies widely. Some dealers are knowledgeable about the weaving regions behind each rug, such as Turkmen, Baluch and Hazara designs, and can explain dyes, knot density and age. Others sell machine-made or recently produced pieces presented as antiques, so the ratio of authentic to tourist goods depends heavily on the individual shop. Lapis in particular is sold in many grades, and dyed or glass imitations exist alongside deep blue stone with fine gold-coloured pyrite flecks.

Bargaining is expected. Opening prices are commonly well above what a local buyer would pay, and a patient, courteous negotiation, often over tea, can bring the price down considerably. Cash is the norm; payment is made in Afghan afghani or, at many tourist-oriented shops, in US dollars, and card payment is rarely available. There is no tax-refund scheme for visitors, and carpets or antiques may need export paperwork, so buyers should ask the dealer for a receipt and check current customs rules before shipping or carrying large pieces abroad.

The atmosphere is relaxed compared with the Old City bazaars: the lane is compact, walkable in a few minutes, and quieter in the morning. Small cafes, bakeries and tea sellers operate in and around the street, though dining options on the street itself are limited and most visitors eat in nearby Shahr-e Naw restaurants. The must-visit corners are the carpet dealers in the middle section of the lane, the lapis and jewellery counters, and the antique shops where old textiles and metalwork are stacked. Visitors should check current local security and travel advice before visiting, since conditions in Kabul can change quickly.